datsun for fun

sebuah rencana..

2008-10-06T00:37:00.002+07:00

Lagi mimpi membangun datsun 510 untuk retro race di sentul.. dan daily drive
Daftar di bawah ini, adalah bayangan sementara.. (updated 6 oktober 2008)

(yg diberi * sudah ada.. hihi long way 2 go..)

sr20de*
sr16ve N1 pistons + rings
sr20gearbox*: close ratio atau ganti final drive
r200 LSD
Cams: 272
dual valve spring
rocker arm
rocker arm guard
sr20de head bolts
sr20ve metal headgasket
weber 48 mm dcoe
MSD-6AL
MSD coil: HVC: biru (biar sama2 MSD)
Koyo 3-ply radiator
4-2-1 header... 2.5inch
6-point roll cage
front + rear R32 brake caliper*
Kijang front ventilated disc
Cresida Rear ventilated disc
Enkei compe 8 ring 15
Sparco Sprint
Sparco bonnet pin*

Adakah yang mau beri masukan?

Honda jadul siapa yang mau?

2008-10-05T22:32:00.004+07:00

Sepeda yang bermotor berikut ini sebenarnya mau 'dibangun'.. Ia adalah kendaraan tanteku semasa ia bersekolah di Bandung tahun 1970-an.

Terpaksa dipasarkan, karena sedang butuh membangun Datsun.. hiks

nice grill!

2008-10-03T23:54:00.001+07:00

ini grill 510 yang seru!

sepertinya jarang ditemui di Jakarta.. hiks!

SR20DE and SR20De

2008-10-01T22:58:00.000+07:00

== dari milis sebelah..
http://www.modifikasi.com/showthread.php?t=4397&page=49

The Nissan SR20DE engine is one of the most successful engines made by Nissan and is used in over 15 Nissan models. It first appeared in Nissan's Bluebird in October 1989, and has migrated into many other models of cars since then, from sports cars, to family saloons and even people movers.

The breakdown of the engine code is as follows:Pedrito Carson Wallace

* SR - Engine Code
* 20 - 2.0 Litres
* D - Dual Overhead Cam
* E - Electronic Fuel Injection
* e - SR20DE LEV-version

The SR20DE is a 2.0 L DOHC (1998 cc) engine; it originally produced 134hp (100 kW). This later increased to 140hp (104kW), which eventually became 165 PS (163 hp/121 kW) through the use of Nissan's VTC variable valve timing system in the S14 and S15 Nissan Silvia. There was also a LEV-version with 125 hp (93 kW) and 132 hp (98 kW). It was built from 1990 through 2002. The bore and stroke are both 86 mm (3.4 in). It uses SEFI. The redline for the lowport SR20DE is 7200 rpm and for the highport SR20DE 7800 rpm. There was a special "Autech" version with 175 PS (N15) and 180 PS (P10).

It is used in the following vehicles:
Model Years Produced
180SX 1991-1992, 1994-1997
200SX 1995-1998
Almera 1996-1999
Avenir 1990, 1992-1995, 1997-2001
Bluebird 1989, 1991-1993, 1995-1998
Liberty 1998-2000
Infiniti G20 1991-2002
NX2000 1991-1993
Prairie Joy 1995-1997
Presea 1990-1993, 1995, 1997-1998]
Primera 1990-2002
Pulsar 1990-1994, 1999
R'nessa 1997-1998, 2000
Rasheen 1998
Sentra 1991-1994, 1998-2001
Serena 1991-1995, 1997-2000
Silvia 1991-1993 1995-1996, 1998-2002

SR20DET

The SR20DET is a turbocharged and intercooled version of the SR20DE, initially producing 205 PS (151 kW) in the S13 Nissan Silvia and 180SX. The second generation in the S14 Silvia produced 220 PS (166 kW) through the use of Nissan's VTC variable valve timing and a ball bearing turbocharger. The final S15 Silvia version produced 250 PS (187 kW) @6400 rpm and 275 N·m (203 ft·lbf) @4800 rpm with an improved Inconel impeller wheel for its turbocharger. The SR20DET has become a common engine swap for a wide spectrum of cars ranging from Nissan Sentras (using FWD versions of the SR engine), to Datsun 510s (Datsun 1600) because of its compact size, RWD format, and its oem turbo. Very popular s13/s14 us conversion.

The Nissan Pulsar GTI-R version was developed as a World Rally Championship homologation engine. It received Quad throttle body and a Garrett T28 turbocharger, larger injectors, as well as a large top-mount intercooler.

It was available in the following vehicles:

* S13/14/15 Nissan Silvia
* S13 Nissan 180SX
* S14 + S14a Nissan 200SX,200 PS (146 kW)
* S15 Nissan Silvia (JDM), 250 PS (247 hp/184 kW)
* N14 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R, 230 PS (169 kW)
* Nissan R'nessa GT Turbo
* U13 Nissan Bluebird SSS ATTESA LTD 210 PS (207 hp/154 kW)
* U12 Nissan Bluebird SSS ATTESA
* W11 Nissan Avenir GT4 230 PS
* W10 Nissan Avenir Salut G GT Turbo 210 PS (207 hp/154 kW)
* Nissan Serena
* Nismo 270R (270 hp @6000 rpm)

SR20VE Engine Specs

2008-10-01T18:20:00.000+07:00

== from http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/290414

SR16VE
The 1.6 L (1596 cc) SR16VE has Nissan's Neo VVL variable valve timing with lift control. It produces 175 PS (129 kW) @7800 rpm and 119 ft.lbf (161 Nm) @7200 rpm.
It is used in the following vehicles:
• N15 Nissan Pulsar VZ-R
• B14 Nissan Lucino VZ-R

SR16VE N1
This version was used in the limited-production (1000 produced) Nissan Pulsar VZ-R N1, produced from 1997 to 1998.
These cars were tuned by Autech Japan:
• 300 Lucino versions in series 1
• 200 Serie versions in series 1
• 300 Lucino versions in series 2
• 200 Serie versions in series 2
It made 200 PS (150 kW) @ 7800 rpm and 134 ft.lbf (181 Nm) @ 7600 rpm.

SR20VE
The 2.0 L SR20VE has Nissan's Neo VVL variable valve timing with lift control. It produces 190 PS (139 kW) @7000 rpm and 144 ft.lbf (196 Nm) @6000 rpm and later (2001-2003) 205 PS (150 kw) @7200 rpm and 206 nm @5200 rpm. It does not have 20 valves as is sometimes stated. Used in the following vehicles:
• 1998 P11 Nissan Primera 2.0G-V, 190 PS (139 kW)
• 2001-2003 P12 Nissan Primera, 205 PS (150 kW) 20V
• U14 Nissan Bluebird SSS, 190 PS (139 kW)
• Y11 JDM Nissan Wingroad ZV-S, 190 PS (139 kW)

SR20VET
The 2.0 L (1998 cc) SR20VET was the first turbocharged engine from Nissan with variable timing and lift control. It produces 280 PS (206 kW) @ 6400rpm and 309 nm @ 3200rpm. This motor was only produced in the Japanese market and is very hard to find.
It is used in the following vehicles:
• Nissan X-Trail GT

References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR_engine

SR20DE/T FAQ

2008-10-01T18:18:00.000+07:00

Turbo Terminology
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/290341

Aspect Ratio or Area / Radius: It is the area of the housing divided by the radius of the housing.

Wastegate: A wastegate is a valve that diverts exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel in a turbocharged engine system. Diversion of exhaust gases causes the turbine to lose speed, which in turn reduces the rotating speed of the compressor. The primary function of the wastegate is to stabilize boost pressure in turbocharger systems, to protect the engine and the turbocharger. The wastegate is controlled by a wastegate actuator in which the actuator is controlled by pressure coming from the intake manifold.

Internal Wastegate: An internal wastegate is an integral part of the turbine housing. The wastegate actuator is commonly attached to the compressor housing with a metal bracket. A flapper valve is generally used by internal wastegates. A boost controller is needed to control boost.

External Wastegate: An external wastegate is a separate self-contained mechanism typically used with turbochargers that do not have internal wastegates. An external wastegate requires a specially constructed turbo manifold with a dedicated runner going to the wastegate. The external wastegate may be part of the exhaust housing itself. External wastegates are commonly used for regulating boost levels more precisely than internal wastegates in high power applications, where high boost levels can be achieved. External wastegates can be much larger since there is no constraint of integrating the valve or spring into the turbocharger and turbine housing. It is possible to use an external wastegate with an internally gated turbocharger, though this generally involves welding the internal wastegate shut to avoid unwanted leaks.
External wastegates generally use a valve similar to the poppet valve found in the cylinder head. However they are controlled by pneumatics rather than a camshaft and open in the opposite direction. External wastegates can also use a butterfly valve, though that is far more rare.

Divorced/Atmospheric wastegate: A "divorced" wastegate dumps the gases directly into the atmosphere, instead of returning them with the rest of an engine's exhaust. This is done to prevent turbulence to the exhaust flow and reduce total back pressure in the exhaust system. Divorced wastegate dumper pipes are commonly referred to as "screamer pipes" due to the unmuffled waste exhaust gasses and the associated loud noises they produce.
Internal gates cannot generally be vented to the atmosphere because the internal wastegate port and turbine exducer are built into the same housing. Occasionally an exhaust downpipe for an internally gated turbocharger will be called 'divorced' because it integrates two tubes where one is intended for the wastegate only. It should be noted that it is difficult to truly separate the exhaust flow of the turbine and wastegate. Thus, internal wastegate turbos will rarely if ever feature an external dump.

Boost Controller: Boost control is the principle of controlling the boost level produced in the intake manifold of a turbocharged or supercharged engine by affecting the air pressure delivered to the pneumatic and mechanical wastegate actuator. Boost controllers can be as simple as a manual boost controller which can be easily fabricated oneself. One may also be included as part of the engine management computer in a factory turbocharged car, or an aftermarket electronic boost controller such as those made by Apex-i or GReddy.

Manual Boost Controller: A manual boost controller is a simple mechanical and pneumatic control to allow some pressure from the wastegate actuator to escape or bleed out to the atmosphere or back into the intake system. This can be as simple as a T-fitting on the boost control line near the actuator with a small bleeder screw. The screw can be turned out to varying degrees to allow air to bleed out of the system, relieving pressure on the wastegate actuator, thus increasing boost levels. These devices are popular due to their negligible cost compared to other devices that may offer the same power increase.

Electronic Boost Controller: Electronic boost control adds an air control solenoid and/or a stepper motor controlled by an electronic control unit. The same general principle of a manual controller is present, which is to control the air pressure presented to the wastegate actuator. Further control and intelligent algorithms can be introduced, refining and increasing control over actual boost pressure delivered to the engine.

Blow Off Valve: A blowoff valve is a pressure release system present in turbocharged engines, its purpose is to prevent compressor surge and reduce wear on the engine.

SR20DE/T Engine Specifications

JDM Pulsar GTI-R: Manufactured between 1990-1994 with a 226 bhp rating @ 6400rpm, producing 209 lbs/ft @ 4000rpm.
Top Mount Inter-cooled / 444cc injectors / quad throttle bodies / T28 Turbo (part # 14411-54C00) / Engine compression ration : 8:3:1.

JDM Bluebird (U12): Manufactured between 1989-1991 with a 202bhp rating @ 6000rpm producing 201 lbs/ft @ 4000rpm.
Top Mount Inter-cooled / 370cc injectors / T25 Turbo part # (14411-79E00) / Engine compression 8:5:1.

JDM Bluebird (U13): Manufactured between 1991-1996 with a 206bhp @ 6000rpm, producing 201 lbs/ft @ 4000rpm.
Front Mount Inter-cooled / 370cc injectors / T25 Turbo part # (14411-1E000/79E00) / Engine compression 8:5:1.

JDM Avenir (W10): Manufacture between 1995-1998 with 226bhp @ 6000rpm, producing 203 lbs/ft @ 3600rpm.
Front Mount Inter-cooled / 370cc injectors / T25 Turbo part # (14411-1E000) Engine compression 8:5:1.

JDM Avenir (W11): Manufactured between 1998-2002 with a 226bhp @ 6000rpm, producing 203 lbs/ft @ 3600rpm.
Front Mount Inter-cooled / 370cc injectors / ball bearing T25 Turbo part # (14411-WA200/WF500) Engine compression 8:5:1.

USDM SR20DE: Engines manufactured between 1991-1999 with a 140bhp @ 6400rpm, producing 132lbs/ft @ 4800rpm. Engines manufactured between 2000-2001 had a 145bhp @ 6400rpm, producing 136 lbs/ft @ 4800rpm.
Natural Aspirated motor with 9:5:1 compression / 259cc injectors.

JDM SR20DE: Manufactured between 1992-1998 with 150bhp.
Natural Aspirated motor with 10:1 compression / 259cc injectors
*ONE INDICATOR OF THIS MOTOR ARE FLAT TOP PISTONS*

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate

SR20DE+T Parts List

2008-10-01T18:14:00.000+07:00

== from nicoclub forum..
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/154751

One of the most infuriating portions of my turbo quest has been figuring out what parts I need/have. Thus, as an addition to my NA->Turbo SR DIY, I figure a more organized parts list would be a good idea.

So, this is that list, divided into sections. I'm listing what is absolutely necessary to make the car run and be drivable, then the recommended list is to make it perform to it's full potential.

Intake:
Filter - Any will do. Remember, this air is going through your turbo into your engine, keep that in mind.

MAF - Stock works unless you're running lots of boost, then a Z32 MAF is a good bet.

Intake tube - This should include a recirc point for the BOV and a line for the valve cover breather.

Turbo - Your choice, bigger turbos mean more air, which means more fuel and possibly more management work. For those of you running off of Nissan Parts Bin kits, keep in mind that Bluebird and Avenir T25s are different, with Avenirs having ball-bearings and a higher wastegate actuator setting stock (9psi instead of 7).

edit: If you get an Avenir T25, check the part number. W11 Avenirs are ball-bearing, but older (W10) Avenirs are not. The W10s have the following part number:
WE0133J
14411-1E000

Turbo out pipe - Personally, I like how mine comes down off the turbo and towards the passenger side for my routing. I was even able to keep the AC so as to keep the ladies happy. However, I see lots of setups where it comes up and over the exhaust manifold, then down and around the front. Your choice.

Intercooler piping - Your size should match your turbo/boost level. For low boost applications, 2.25in will keep boost response up and leave a little room for more, but for those of you who like big turbos, invest in bigger piping. I run 2.5in for a 10psi T25 and get great response, for reference. There are piping kits available. Another option is to buy some stainless steel or aluminum exhaust piping with several 90* bends, a 45* or a few if needed, and some straight pipe.

Intercooler - This should also match your turbo. Try to match the in/out size to the IC piping you're running. Get a core that matches your hp goals. Most are advertised with the power they can support. Also keep in mind that huge ICs can cause pressure drop and cover up your radiator, increasing engine temps. FMICs are a good bet, but TMICs are more stealthy, though prone to heatsoak. A sidemount would be tough to fit.

BOV - Get whatever you want. If you get a Nissan one with your setup, you might as well keep it. It's noisy enough to give you a smirk on shifts, but quiet enough to keep the sleeper effect somewhat plausible (as if an intercooler grinning under the bumper doesn't advertise what's up ...). This is all a matter of personal taste, they all work the same. RECIRCULATE, please.

Misc. - Various hoses and silicon connectors for the pipes and tubes you need. A recirc line, IACV line, wastegate line, vc breather line (Get an oil catch can!), and that funny other line to the bottom of the intake mani near the TB for you B13/14 SR people. Sizes vary, measure your inputs/outputs and get however many feet you need.

Exhaust:
Manifold - Whatever comes with your setup. Make sure it matches your turbo, the output to T25/T28/etc is different than T3/T4/etc turbos. Also note that if you want to use a T28 and a Nissan manifold, only GTi-R and Avenir manifolds will allow the T28 to clear the block.

Wastegate - Your call. If your turbo comes with one, use it, but if you want bigger, get a bigger one.

Downpipe - If your setup comes with a turndown off the turbo, use it unless you want more room. Everything should be at least 2.5in, preferably 3 if you're running much boost. Make sure to have two O2 bungs, one for your 1st O2 and the other for a wideband so you can tune. Backpressure is bad.

Catback - This should match the size of the downpipe. Bigger is pointless, smaller is stupid. Get one that flows well with straight through cores, that sort of thing. Keep in mind that this thing will be LOUD, so a resonator is recommended both for volume and tone. Without resonators, most cars sound tinny and ricetastic, and Sentras/NXs/whatever are no exceptions. Your resonator should be straight-through as well for best flow. I'll go ahead and say that my BRM from our beloved owner Greg sounds great and flows well. Backpressure is bad. OBDII folks, keep in mind that you need to move your 2nd O2 bung behind the cat to stay legal.

To make this clear, BACKPRESSURE IS BAD FOR TURBOS.

Fuel/Management:
Injectors - Get injectors to match your boost level. Below 12psi, 370ccs will work. 34lb (360cc) MSDs are a good choice for top-feed people (B15), 370s from any other SR do nicely for side-feed people (B13/14). For higher boost, 50lb MSDs (B15) do nicely. Most B13/14 people get a top-feed fuel rail when they get to needing more than 370s. I believe JWT can help you out, or whatever source you may be able to find. I've heard of people making their own.

Computer - A piggyback like an SAFCII does the trick. Check the recommended list about this.

Wastegate control - If you're using a wastegate actuator that came with your turbo, just hook up the line and go. Those of you with boost controllers, read the instruction manual and bear in mind that more boost requires more fuel and management, as well as increases the wear and tear on your engine components. B15 guys, bear in mind that roller-rocker SRs do not have quite as strong of pistons/rods and have more of a tendency to shoot rocker arms at high rpms.

Misc.: Besides the aforementioned hoses, you will need...
Oil - An oil feed line of whatever size matches your turbo outlet and the hole you've tapped on the block. A multiport T off the sending unit is another must so you can feed the turbo. SPL has one with two ports, one for the engine, another for the turbo. Nissport and Tuner Toys make them with more ports.

Coolant - Lines for coolant, some rubber fuel hose from NAPA is cheap and easy.

Fittings - This is probably the biggest pain I ran into. If you have an aircraft supply shop nearby, you're in luck. ATPturbo.com has basically every fitting you need. It's kind of confusing still. With the T25, the oil inlet is -3AN. Ask people who have whatever turbo you have what fittings you need and be prepared to order/go hunting for these.

Injector connectors - If you're running MSDs bear in mind that they have a different plug on them that you'll need to solder into your wiring harness.. Autozone has the part, it's a GP Sorenson, part # 800-9213. Each Autozone will have one, at best, so be prepared to run around a bit or have them transfer them in from other stores. You need 4, one for each injector.

And now, the recommended list...
Highly Recommended:
Boost gauge - My VDO was something like $30, then I got a mounting cup for it. Works well, easily visible. I need to wire it up so I can see it at night. You'll need another hose for this, run it through the firewall on the passenger side near the glovebox, there's a grommet there you can pull out. Keep in mind that where it taps into determines whether you get vacuum or not. I suggest tapping in near the TB for the most useful measurement. Using a QuickTap from ATP will make this easy, as it just slids into one of your IC connectors. Your call.

Fuel pump - A Walbro 255lph is a good call. B13/14 guys have specific part #s, but there is no listing for B15s. B15 guys, either use a B14 pump (apparently it fits rather easily, I'm trying to dig up the install info for when I do this myself) or the in-line kit, PTI has both. Without this part you'll more than likely get an A/F spike at about 5200rpm (max power, oddly enough) to 12.5 no matter what you do with the SAFC, though it falls back to 11.5:1 (what we want) by 6000rpm and stays steady to redline. Mine spikes to 12.9 on occasion and that causes some detonation with the stock pump. Point being, if you can't afford/find a pump right now, either don't do the install or don't wind it out. Trust me, there's plenty of fun to be had in 3rd and 4th gear on winding backroads at 3000-4500rpm.

FPR - NISMO is a good choice, but they're not cheap. Your call. You'll need this to get the pressure right with that big pump, otherwise you'll run stupid rich.

Moderately Recommended:
Management - B15 guys, look into getting a JWT-tuned B14 ECU and rewiring to run it, B15 SR ECUs cannot be tuned. B13/14 guys, look into getting your ECU tuned by JWT. This way, the piggyback is just for fine tuning, rather than for the livelihood of the engine. Be careful with your ECU or it might decide it hates you and randomly malfunction (don't ask me how I know).

Suspension: A good shock/spring combo is definitely a good idea to keep you on the road with the new power. I like my Koni Yellow/Eibach Sportline combo. Coilovers would be even better. I hear good things about JICs (especially the FLTA2s) and TEINs, and lots of arguments about K-Sports. Many guys swear by Yellows and Ground Controls, claiming better handling than the coilover boys.

Wheels/Tires - Wheels should suit your style and budget, but more importantly, they should have space for the rubber you need to keep that power going to the ground. For B13/14 guys, you don't have as much room in the fenderwells, so a 15X7 or 16X7 would be great, though it may rub a little depending on your suspension. B15 guys get their one and only break here. With my Koni/Eibach setup, a drop of 1.5in and with not a whole lot of wheel travel, I easily fit 17X7s with 215/45/17s. NISMO wheels are 17X7.5, which would give you the option of a 225 series tire, though this will be close to rubbing, depending on suspension. As tires go, the stickier the better. Azenis are a good bet, but if you want to drive this thing year round and as a daily, and are budget conscious, I have to recommend some Falken Ziex Ze 512s. They handle my power for the most part (though wet+turning+WOT and we're off to crazy wheelspin land, even with the LSD), and RED_DET, our mod here, runs them around his 15"s on his B13 with 278whp with no complaints, wow. $74/tire for 215/45/17s and even cheaper for smaller sizes.

LSD - A limited slip is your new friend. Get one if you didn't have one stock.

Brakes - Please get some better stopping power. If nothing else, get some Hawk HPS pads. This isn't really necessary, but, like suspension, you need some way of keeping control with the added power. I went for a pretty strong route with Brembo slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Technafit SS lines all around. I also run ATE Super Blue fluid. Speedbleeders will make this install easier. As I said though, some good pads will do the trick, make sure to bed them properly.

Transmission - B15 guys, you're in luck. B15s have the strongest trannies of USDM Sentras. P11 G20s share this transmission. B13/14 guys don't have this, but the stock transmission will hold quite a lot of power (RED is on the stock one with, as mentioned, 278whp). If your tranny is on the way out, look into getting a B15 or JDM one. However, everyone should look for a new clutch. My stock clutch is holding pretty well, but I don't think it'll last long. Look at the advertised power levels and get what suits your setup.

Other:
Lots of guys swear by the virtues of EGT gauges, being it that EGT is often a good measure of what's going on with combustion. Other gauges to look at would be Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, a better Water Temp gauge, Tranny Temp, and A/F Ratio.

A shortshifter wouldn't be a bad idea either, mostly because they're just that much fun.

Good fluids like Redline synthetic tranny oil, Redline Water Wetter, and Mobil1 Synthetic engine oil are always a good idea.

Those of you with G20s, things I mention for B15s also apply to P11 G20s (1999+) while B13/14 notes apply to P10 (before '99) G's. This includes engine and transmission issues. Suspensions are different.

Good luck and have fun! Once you get the parts, check out the install DIY in the Sentra section.

Holy crap! 915 bhp SR20DE!

2008-10-01T17:58:00.000+07:00

== from a mailing list, i found this..
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/216780

Just bought the Swedish magazine Bilsport, usually boring but this time they had an interesting car featured!

Nissan Cherry Turbo "Wok Edition"

SR20DE engine from Nissan Primera GT:

*JE pistons
*Saenz rods
*Stock crank
*Stock valves
*Custom cams
*Springs and retainers from Kelford Cams
*Custom intake with 75mm TB
*Iveco truck IC
*3.5" exhaust
*Custom tubular manifold
*Garrett GT42R turbo
*Dual Bosch -044 pumps
*Bosch 1600cc injectors
*Autronic SMC standalone

Result: 915hp/883Nm at 2.9 bar.

Tranny? Volvo 850 5-speed gearbox and axles. Volvo brakes as well.

Best ET: 10.18 and 236 km/h at the first try, more after the winter.

Modified by Swedish Mike at 8:54 AM 12/22/2006

IRTCC Regulation (in Indonesian)

2008-09-28T23:04:00.002+07:00

REGULASI
TEKNIK DAN NON-TEKNIK
“INDONESIAN RETRO TOURING CAR CHAMPIONSHIP ( IRTCC ) 2008”

1. KATEGORI
1.1 Kategori kendaraan yang diperbolehkan untuk mengikuti INDONESIAN RETRO TOURING CAR CHAMPIONSHIP (IRTCC) 2008 adalah kendaraan dengan tahun produksi maksimum tahun 1985 dengan penggerak roda belakang (RWD).
1.2 Kategori pembalap Non Seeded dan Pemula untuk RETRO & RETRO1.
1.3 Kategori pembalap Seeded untuk RETRO 2.
1.4 Pembalap yang menggunakan kendaraan VW HARUS mendapat rekomendasi dari Volkswagen Racing Association (VRA).
1.5 Kategori kelas yang diperlombakan:
Retro Kendaraan dengan kapasitas mesin 0 cc – 1600 cc*.
Retro 1 Kendaraan dengan kapasitas mesin 1601 cc – 2000 cc*.
Retro 2 Kendaraan dengan kapasitas mesin 0 cc – 2000 cc*. (Seeded)
*oversize maksimal 1 mm contoh :
1600 cc piston diameter 78 mm maksimum oversize 79 mm
2000 cc piston diameter 85 mm maksimum oversize 86 mm

2. BERAT MINIMUM
2.1 Berat minimum adalah berat kendaraan termasuk pembalap, perlengkapannya dan peralatan keselamatan.
2.2 Berat kendaraan tidak pernah boleh lebih ringan daripada apa yang tertera pada peraturan ini, baik dalam babak kualifikasi maupun pada saat balapan.
2.3 Ballast (berat tambahan) dapat ditambahkan untuk mencapai berat minimum. Ballast harus terbuat dari besi dan dipasangkan pada mobil secara permanen dengan di las, atau semi permanen dengan mur dan baut. Lokasi penempatan ballast bebas, tetapi harus di dalam kabin penumpang dan/ atau bagasi.
2.4 Berat minimum kendaraan sesuai dengan kapasitas mesin adalah sebagai berikut:
0 cc s/d 1600 cc (RETRO) minimum 900 Kg (Seeded +60 Kg)
1601 cc s/d 2000 cc (RETRO 1) minimum 1.000 Kg (Seeded +60 Kg)
2.5 Penambahan berat akan diberikan pada setiap pemenang seri sebagai berikut:
Juara I : 60 Kg Juara IV : 20 Kg
Juara II : 50 Kg Juara V : 10 Kg
Juara III : 40 Kg
Penambahan berat tidak berlaku pada kelas RETRO 2 (Seeded).
2.6 Penambahan berat maksimum adalah 60 kg.
2.7 Sanksi bila kendaraan lebih ringan dari ketentuan yang berlaku adalah Start paling belakang saat kualifikasi & diskualifikasi saat lomba.

3. PERALATAN DAN KESELAMATAN
3.1. Setiap kendaraan diwajibkan memasang Rollbar minimum 6 (enam) titik dengan pipa berbahan Seamless.
3.2. Ukuran pipa dan skema, sesuai dengan buku peraturan balap mobil IMI 2008, dan wajib menggunakan side bar di pintu kanan & kiri depan.
3.3. DIHARUSKAN memasang safety belt berukuran 3 inch minimum 4 (empat) titik, tarikan seatbelt minimal 60 derajat, dan wajib menggunakan shoulder pad.
3.4. DIHARUSKAN memasang tabung Pemadam kebakaran tipe BCF/BTM min. 2,5 kg, dan harus menggunakan bracket. Khusus tabung Pemadam Kebakaran, HARUS diposisikan agar dapat dicapai dengan mudah oleh pembalap, dalam keadaan masih terikat Safety Belt di tempat duduknya.
3.5. Seluruh perlengkapan keamanan ini harus lolos scruteneering.

4. MESIN
Konfigurasi mesin inline & boxer (khusus VW) diperbolehkan.
Maksimum jumlah Cylinder adalah 4.
Penggunaan mesin sepenuhnya bebas dan diperbolehkan engine swapping serta tidak wajib se-merk dengan body kecuali VW harus menggunakan mesin VW.
Komponen Short Engine/Block kompetisi ( Racing Parts ) DILARANG.
Khusus untuk VW diperbolehkan menggunakan Crankshaft Counterweight maksimal 78 mm untuk kelas RETRO 1 dan RETRO 2, Crankshaft Counterweight maksimal 69 mm untuk kelas RETRO.
Komponen Cylinder Head BEBAS.
Mesin type ROTARYdan konfigurasi V Engine DILARANG.
Penggunaan NOS, Forced Induction – Turbocharger,Supercharger dan sejenisnya DILARANG.
Penggunaan ECU/Engine Management, dan sejenisnya DILARANG.
Tahun pembuatan mesin adalah BEBAS.
Penggunaan teknologi VTEC,VVTI,MIVEC dan sejenisnya DILARANG.
Penggunaan Dry Sump DILARANG.
Penggunaan Electric Water Pump DILARANG.
Dudukan Mesin (Engine Mounting) harus dengan konstruksi yg benar dan kuat.
WAJIB memasang engine cut off di dalam kabin dan dapat dicapai dengan mudah oleh pembalap dalam keadaan masih terikat safety belt di tempat duduknya, serta harus memasang tambahan tuas pemutus engine cut off diluar kabin.

5. PASOKAN BAHAN BAKAR DAN UDARA
Pasokan bahan bakar WAJIB menggunakan karburator dan system saringan udara bebas.
Diameter karburator maksimum 50 mm.
Ukuran Venturi/Choke untuk kelas RETRO dengan spesifikasi mesin dengan jumlah klep tidak lebih dari 16 klep maksimum diameter 36 mm dan maksimum diameter 38 mm untuk kelas RETRO 1 dan RETRO 2.
Ukuran Venturi/Choke untuk kelas RETRO dengan spesifikasi mesin dengan jumlah klep lebih dari 16 klep maksimum diameter 34 mm dan maksimum diameter 36 mm untuk kelas RETRO 1 dan RETRO 2.
Fuel Pump tidak boleh berada di ruang mesin.
Fuel Line yang berada di dalam kabin harus menggunakan bahan braided steel tanpa sambungan, sedangkan Fuel Line yang diluar kabin harus terbuat dari bahan pipa.
Tangki bahan bakar tidak boleh satu ruangan dengan pembalap. Boleh dipindah ke dalam bagasi tetapi harus dibuatkan separator.
Untuk karburator yang berada diatas header dan alternator WAJIB memakai tatakan yang terbuat dari bahan metal/plat.

6. PENGAPIAN
6.1. Merek dan type busi bebas.
6.2. Kabel busi bebas.
6.3. Koil boleh diganti dan diperbolehkan menambah alat tambahan untuk memperbesar pengapian dan jumlah pemakaian koil tidak boleh lebih dari 1 buah.
6.4. Distributorless sepenuhnya DILARANG.
6.5. Timing Programmable sepenuhnya DILARANG.

7. TRANSMISI DAN KOPLING
System Transmisi dan Kopling bebas, transmisi manual sequential tidak diperbolehkan dan flywheel harus standart (non kompetisi/racing).

8. SUSPENSI
Komponen Suspensi bebas, tapi tidak boleh mengubah system suspensi. Misalnya, mobil aslinya dengan suspensi MacPherson Strut tidak boleh dirubah menjadi double wishbone.
Khusus VW diperbolehkan penambahan sockhbreker maksimum 1 buah pada tiap roda belakang.

9. REM
System Rem sepenuhnya bebas.

10. RODA ATAU BAN
10.1. Ban yang boleh digunakan harus produksi dalam negeri atau yang diwajibkan oleh Organizing Committee IRTCC 2008.
10.2. Diameter velg maksimum berukuran 15”
10.3. Ban tidak boleh keluar dari spakbor/ harus dalam body.
10.4. Ban slick tidak diperbolehkan.

11. INTERIOR
11.1. Jok harus bucket seat
11.2. Stir boleh diganti dan ditambahkan spacer.
11.3. Tunnel Box (tutup gearbox) harus terbuat dari bahan plat, boleh diripet/dilas dan menyatu dengan ruang kabin.
11.4. Disarankan memasang No.Start di dashboard.

12. EXTERIOR
12.1. Bumper depan dan belakang boleh dirubah bentuk dan bahan, sejauh tidak mengesampingkan factor safety.
12.2. WAJIB memasang bonnet pin di kap motor.
12.3. Bodi secara keseluruhan harus tampak asli, kabin harus asli.
12.4. Pintu belakang, Kap motor, bagasi boleh diganti dengan bahan yang lebih ringan,khusus untuk pintu depan kiri boleh diganti tetapi wajib memakai double sidebar.
12.5. Kaca spion luar kiri-kanan harus ada, namun bentuk boleh dirubah.
12.6. Penambahan peralatan aerodinamis diperbolehkan.
12.7. Lampu depan dan belakang diizinkan dilepas namun lubang tempat lampu wajib di tutup rapat. Penutup lampu depan dapat dibuatkan lubang-lubang untuk udara masuk.
12.8. WAJIB memasang 1(satu) buah lampu rem berwarna merah yang berfungsi dan dapat terlihat jelas dari belakang, dengan ukuran minimal 10 x 5 cm.
12.9. Lampu sein, lampu sore dan lampu bahaya (HAZARD) harus ada dan dapat berfungsi sebagaimana mestinya.
12.10. Pemakaian kaca Acrylic diperbolehkan tetapi tebal minimal harus 5 mm, kecuali kaca depan HARUS kaca laminated.
12.11. Disarankan kaca depan memakai kaca film clear.
12.12. Bodi dan Chasis harus dalam kondisi baik, dalam artian tidak ada bagian yang keropos dan bersifat membahayakan.
12.13. WAJIB memasang Towing di bagian depan dan belakang serta diberi tanda.

13. PROTES
13.1. Apabila timbul keganjilan dari spesifikasi kendaraan, maka diberlakukan sistem protes.
13.2. Setiap protes harus menyertakan permohonan tertulis dengan jelas kepada Organizing Committee (OC) IRTCC 2008.
13.3. Setiap protes dikenakan biaya sebesar Rp. 1.000.000,- (Satu Juta Rupiah) + Rp. 3.000.000,-(Tiga Juta Rupiah) untuk pengecekan/pembongkaran bila diperlukan.
13.4. Setiap protes harus sudah sampai dan terbayar lunas, selambat-lambatnya dalam waktu 30 menit setelah perlombaan berakhir.
13.5. Alasan protes harus jelas dan ditujukkan kepada siapa, serta yang mengajukan harus dapat membuktikan bahwa yang bersangkutan adalah pendaftar dan peserta yang sah.
13.6. Apabila protes tersebut benar dan diterima, maka biaya tersebut akan dikembalikan.

14. SANKSI & PEMERIKSAAN TEKNIS
14.1. Apabila pihak yang mendapat protes itu ternyata terbukti melakukan hal yang di luar dari peraturan yang berlaku (dalam hal ini Peraturan Teknik dan Peraturan Perlombaan), maka pihak tersebut DIHARUSKAN membayar penalty sebesar Rp. 5.000.000,- dan Point kejuaraan yang sudah diperoleh otomatis akan hilang.
14.2. OC IRTCC 2008 BERHAK meminta pembongkaran mesin seusai perlombaan secara mendadak dan tanpa pembertahuan sebelumnya, minimal 1 kali dan maksimal 2 kali dalam satu musim balap, antara lain untuk memeriksa volume kapasitas mesin.Permintaan ini dapat ditujukan kepada semua peserta, atau hanya kepada beberapa peserta (misalnya pemenang 1 s/d 3 atau secara acak), atau hanya satu peserta secara acak.
14.3. Peserta yang diminta membongkar mesinnya wajib mempersiapkan segala sesuatu yang dibutuhkan untuk melaksanakan pembongkaran ini.Segala biaya yang berkenaan dengan pemeriksaan ini adalah tanggung jawab peserta.
14.4. Apabila ditemukan keganjilan yang tidak sesuai dengan REGULASI IRTCC 2008 yang berlaku, maka pihak yang melakukan hal tersebut DIHARUSKAN mambayar pinalti sebesar RP.5.000.000,- dan poin kejuaraan yang sudah diperoleh otomatis akan hilang.

15. POINT KEJUARAAN
Point yang didapat untuk setiap pembalap di tiap kelasnya maupun secara umum :
15.1. JUARA 1 → 10 point
15.2. JUARA 2 → 8 point
15.3. JUARA 3 → 6 point
15.4. JUARA 4 → 5 point
15.5. JUARA 5 → 4 point
15.6. JUARA 6 → 3 point
15.7. JUARA 7 → 2 point
15.8. JUARA 8 → 1 point

Point juga ditambahkan kepada setiap peserta sebagai berikut :
Kualifikasi Tercepat / POLE POSITION → 2 point.
Waktu race tercepat dalam satu putaran/ FASTEST LAP → 2 point.
Setiap menyelesaikan satu putaran → 1 point.
Tiap Peserta dapat memperebutkan Kejuaraan Umum Akhir tahun berdasarkan jumlah point yang didapat dari urutan finish secara umum di tiap serinya.

16. CATATAN
16.1 Pihak penyelenggara (OC) dapat menambahkan/merubah peraturan dengan
pemberitahuan melalui media, bulletin kepada seluruh peserta bila dianggap perlu selama Kejuaraan berlangsung.
16.2 Penentuan kategori dari pembalap/peserta akan ditentukan oleh beberapa orang yang
ditunjuk oleh penyelenggara/OC IRTCC 2008 dan berdasarkan daftar pembalap yang
dikeluarkan oleh IMI.

SEGALA PERATURAN YANG BELUM TERCANTUM DALAM REGULASI INDONESIAN RETRO TOURING CAR CHAMPIONSHIP 2008, OTOMATIS MENGIKUTI PERATURAN UNTUK KELAS-KELAS NON-KEJURNAS (IMI SANCTIONED)
Update 15 January 2008

Tata cara masuk track SIRKUIT pada saat LATIHAN
• Keluar dari KORIDOR PIT (A) menuju SAFETY AREA (B)
• Kecepatan max. 40 km/jam di SAFETY AREA (B) menuju garis END SAFETY AREA (C).
• Apabila lampu merah di END SAFETY AREA (C) menyala, anda tidak boleh melewati garis di END SAFETY AREA, menunggu diizinkan masuk trek dengan tanda menyalanya lampu hijau.
• Apabila lampu hijau di END SAFETY AREA (C) menyala, anda diperbolehkan masuk trek dengan memperhatikan kendaraan lain yang sedang latihan di sisi kiri anda.

Tata cara keluar dari track Sirkuit pada saat LATIHAN
• Bila ingin keluar dari track SIRKUIT, anda harus memberi tanda sein kanan sesudah tikungan terakhir.
• Pada saat anda memasuki daerah SAFETY AREA (B) max. kecepatan 40 km/jam di sisi kiri dari marka SAFETY AREA (Garis Kuning)
• Sebelum garis END SAFETY AREA (C) anda berbelok ke arah kanan menuju KORIDOR PIT (X).

Tata cara masuk track SIRKUIT pada saat BALAP

• 15 MENIT sebelum waktu schedule balap, anda harus siap di CHECKING AREA (TRACK IN) dengan perlengkapan balap (Baju balap, Helm dan Sarung tangan) dan SAFETY BELT dalam keadaan terpasang.
• Anda menuju SAFETY AREA (B) dengan kecepatan max. 40 km/jam ke arah garis END SAFETY AREA (C).
• Apabila lampu merah menyala, anda harus menunggu sebelum garis END SAFETY AREA (C), menunggu sampai diizinkan masuk trek dengan tanda lampu hijau Menyala.
• Apabila lampu hijau sudah menyala, anda memasuki trek dan memutari SIRKUIT menuju ke arah posisi GRID (D).
• Berhenti di posisi grid masing-masing (sesuai dengan grid setelah kualifikasi) dan mematikan mesin anda.
• Perhatikan aba-aba dari petugas START (Ditunjukkan dengan papan waktu).

S T A R T
• Pada saat papan “START ENGINE” ditunjukkan, anda diperbolehkan menyalakan mesin anda.
• Apabila bendera merah dikibarkan, anda memutari SIRKUIT untuk melakukan “WARMING LAP” (satu putaran), dan DILARANG MENYUSUL peserta lain.
• Setelah memutari SIRKUIT, anda kembali ke posisi grid anda (D).
• Pada saat LAMPU MERAH menyala, anda bersiap untuk START.
• Apabila lampu Merah MATI & Lampu HIJAU menyala START dimulai.

F I N I S H
• Setelah bendera KOTAK HITAM & PUTIH / Checkered Flag dikibarkan, berarti balapan telah selesai (Finish).
• Dilarang melintasi Garis Finish lebih dari 1X atau akan dikenakan sanksi oleh Pimpinan /Pengawas Perlombaan.
• Anda memutari SIRKUIT dan memasuki SAFETY AREA (B) menuju ke SCRUTEENERING AREA untuk ditimbang MOBIL & PEMBALAPNYA.
• Setelah ditimbang, anda DIHARUSKAN memarkirkan Kendaraannya di area PARC FERME.
A D D E N D U M

• Addendum 01 :
Sticker Main Sponsor Even Sentul (FASTRON - PERTAMAX Touring Car Championship 2008) WAJIB DIPASANG.
'- Sticker No. Start - Tidak boleh dipotong
'- Sticker di Kaca Depan - Kaca Belakang

• Addendum 02 :
DRY TYRE - SESUAI Peraturan Teknik IIRTCC 2008, Menggunakan Ban Produk Lokal dan boleh di Cutting

• Addendum 03 :
WET TYRE - (Penentuan WET RACE dilakukan oleh Penyelenggara Min. 15 Menit sebelum Race dimulai / Pintu Kuning di buka),
DIIZINKAN menggunakan BAN Non-Lokal / IMPORT dengan ukuran Wheels Diameter Max. 15 Inch, Merek BEBAS, BAN tersebut adalah NON-SLICK WET TYRE / NON-RACING (COMPETITION) PURPOSE ONLY, dan HARUS dijual secara massal / umum.

• Addendum 04 :
Jarak Terendah dari Bagian Bawah Mobil, adalah apabila terjadi pecah ban, satu maupun ke-empatnya, tidak menimbulkan gesekan dengan permukaan lintasan.

• Addendum 05 :
DISARANKAN memakai HELMET FULLFACE dan MEMASANG No. START masing-masing di dalam kabin.

• Addendum 06 :
WAJIB mengikuti BRIEFING PESERTA (boleh diwakilkan oleh CREW) - Sanksi DENDA.

My Friend's Advan

2008-09-28T22:52:00.003+07:00

Gara Gunawan kept these wheels for over 15 years in his garage. He lend me the wheels, because the 16 inch wheels which are attached to my 510 were worse. After got some used 14 inche tires, I put these on the 510.

It does looks good! Thanks Igun!

Items to dream about..

2008-09-28T01:20:00.004+07:00

Nice OEM mirror!
May someday got them installed ..

Nice and clean cross-member for the sr20..

A transmission bracket.. it looks right!

Compiling parts

2008-09-28T00:33:00.003+07:00

I got this SR20de SR13.

The engine needs a manual flywheel, though, since now it's an automatic transmission.
It'll be a long way to go..

.. and a sr20 rear wheel drive gearbox will be matted with.

Still looking for a pair of Weber carburetors.. May be 40, 45, or even 48 Italian made preferably..

Just Got It!

2008-09-28T00:23:00.000+07:00

After months of searching, looking, and thinking.. Finally got a 1969 Datsun 510.

Not with the color of my liking, but it stands quite fresh. I think it's not a bad 'raw material' to built something 'fun'..